Whilst boarding a boat at the port in Ko Lanta town in Thailand, it was sprung upon us that the day’s outing would involve swimming in a cave. No other information was mentioned, so I instantly and purposefully forgot about it. I’d been offered the opportunity to swim in a cave once before, on a boat in Greece twenty years ago, to which I replied using only my hands because the power of speech had failed me at the thought of swimming in a cave. I can only wish that that had also been my response on this otherwise-beautiful Thai day.
The day had been so far spent stopping at various bays and islands for snorkelling, which was an event in itself because we had our six-year-old with us, who had never snorkelled before. The sea was fairly calm but it wasn’t still, and both my partner Jake and I can swim but are not overly comfortable out of our depth. Once I had a panic attack whilst holding my friend’s two-year-old in the sea (sorry Moo!) and had to chuck her into a nearby boat whilst I hyperventilated. So I was feeling slightly apprehensive about letting my wild little son loose in the sea, with only my marginally-less wild teenager present as extra back-up, should my partner and I prove to be useless in the child-saving department. Bearing in mind we have lost one child (to a genetic disorder), it wasn’t my most relaxing day out ever. But the little wild one mustn’t be wrapped in cotton wool because of his brother dying, right?
So, kitted out with a mini lifejacket and snorkel set, Tatu (small, wild) stood at the side of the ladder down into the sea whilst I faffed around trying to get my own mask on. I looked up, ready, and he’d gone. I rushed over to that side of the boat in time to see him jump off the ladder and swim off with his face in the water as if he’d done it hundred times before. I even heard him laugh in delight through his snorkel, watching angel fish beneath him. Jake and I exchanged a glance: partly ‘thank goodness he swims like the teenager and not like us’ and also ‘bloody hell!’
Returning to the boat, the captain announced that we would proceed now to the cave. A cave. Which we would swim in. ‘WHAT ARE YOU EVEN TALKING ABOUT?’ I shouted at him, but only in my head. We arrived at the mouth of the cave to find that the sea behaves differently when presented with caves, and was throwing waves in and out of the entrance like it was playing tennis with itself. At no point did the captain say a) this is a strange thing to do, b) if anyone is uncomfortable in deep water they should stay behind, or c) there is no way on Earth that a six-year-old can physically do this. I personally feel that he should have said all of the above. I had spent the previous twenty-five minutes wondering aloud whether or not I could do it myself.
Tatu, unencumbered by fear, jumped off the flippin’ ladder before Jake or me but luckily immediately followed by the teenager. My friend David told the captain that I was nervous and asked him if said captain could swim alongside me. ‘Of course!’ replied the captain, and promptly jumped off the boat, never to be seen by me again.
Now Jake and I were in the sea which was swelling up and down by a couple of feet, and our two children were about 20 feet ahead of us, having been caught up in the waves and the crowd of about 15 other swimmers heading into the dark cave. ‘Fucking hell!’ I shouted, and we both started swimming towards the boys without me having the chance to even consider getting back on the boat and hiding from the stupid cave like any reasonable person would do. The teacher and the group of school children that he led into a flooded Thai cave, where they got stuck for a couple of weeks, did cross my mind.
At the mouth we found a tunnel stretching back through the cave, towards a bend beyond which we could see nothing. What we could see was our boys, swimming like mad against the strength of the sea, following a guy with a small handheld torch in an otherwise pitch-black cave with sharp, jagged rocks surrounding them on both sides. They were corralled in between several adults, all of whom were swimming inefficiently after Torch Guy. Disbelief struck me again and again – I am a sensible person who long ago discarded most of the recklessness of youth and who mainly spends her time trying to keep my remaining children safe. At no point had I made a decision involving letting them swim miles ahead of me in a dark, sharp, sea-flooded fucking cave!
The swim inwards was laborious because of the waves pushing and pulling at us – we would gain a few feet and then suddenly be drawn backwards through the water we’d just covered. It was also tricky because we were trying to swim as fast as we could to catch up with the boys, which was a non-starter of course because we’re both crap at swimming quickly. Luckily the teenager is an excellent swimmer and very strong in general, and he had stayed with Tatu. It soon became apparent that in no way could Tatu actually manage this, and the teenager hoisted him onto his shoulder and carried him, whilst swimming with his left arm (he’s right-handed) – and for this reason only, Tatu made it through the cave. Seeing one carry the other gave me some relief, but I was shouting in frustration and Jake, who by now was pulling me along with one hand and swimming with the other, kept telling me to just swim. Getting battered in the face by saltwater and pushed backwards every four feet felt infuriating, and I kept shouting rude and pointless enquiries about the reasons that made people do this by choice.
The next fun thing that happened was that the teenager was suddenly swatted sideways by an enormous wave, towards the wall, which was covered with stalactites of jagged rock pointing out and down towards my children with their sharp teeth ready to tear into them. Torch Guy was close to the boys and he grabbed Tatu off the teenager’s shoulder, rescuing one but not the other, and the teenager crashed unceremoniously into the wall but miraculously avoided the worst spikes. At this point, with the torch and with my young child still on his shoulder, Torch Guy disappeared round the bend. This left us all in total darkness and I had some stuff to shout about that. I didn’t have time to feel scared though, which was a bonus I suppose.
The captain presumably was behind us all, as an extra small light source appeared and we approached the bend ourselves after what felt like another fifteen minutes but was probably two. At the bend Jake swung me from behind him, all the way past him and propelled me forward (probably because he was sick of dragging my fat arse through a sea-cave) and I started swimming like an excited little puppy towards the daylight I could now see at the end of this 85-metre-long ridiculous excuse for a fun activity. By the time we emerged at the other end, I was dazed and confused about my life choices – although I still maintain I had no choice – and relieved to see my small wild one and my man-boy one wading out through the shallows.
As if the *insert expletive here* cave wasn’t enough excitement for one day, we were now on a hidden and exceedingly beautiful beach, in a massive hole. Imagine a volcano that has had its lava column plucked out, leaving the tall sides around the empty centre. In the centre we stood, on soft sand completely surrounded by jungle. The rock sides soared straight up, way above us and that perfect blue Thai sky was visible at the top. It was incredible but we were too busy laughing about the cave, in that raucous way people do when they’ve just finished doing something totally nerve-wracking and stupid and they can’t believe they’ve got away with it. Tatu ran around yelling with joy, and when questioned about getting there he declared a lack of fear and wasn’t bothered about the fact that the only way out of the hole was the same way we came in. Mind you, he was carried most of the way.
After the allotted ten minutes only (to avoid being stuck there for the night due to the incoming high tide – another previously undisclosed gem) we splashed back into the clear water, me privately sighing resignedly. Torch Guy suddenly had a large lifebuoy tied to his wrist, floating along behind him – had he had it on the way in?! I called to the teenager, who moves more quickly than me through water (and in general), to attach Tatu to the ring so that he could be safely pulled back through the cave, which by now had assumed evil intentions in my mind. What I did not foresee was that Tatu would once again be pulled out of sight right in front of my eyes, but too far ahead for me to do anything about it. Having told Jake again that this did not constitute fun just to make sure he definitely knew, I started swimming into the fucking cave again! Aaargh!
And the teenager? He, now with the use of both arms, swam expertly off after Tatu, only pausing to call back ‘Are you alright Mama?’ Oh, how the tables have turned.
As we were discharged by the cave, my facial expression was a mixture of physical exhaustion and bewilderment at the leisure pursuits of other people, albeit with a newfound respect for British Health & Safety laws. David, who had sensibly remained on the boat, saw the mixture of emotions on my face and, wanting to do something to help me, took a photo.

P.s. It was the Emerald Cave in Ko Muk 🙂